Wednesday, October 28, 2009
Its raining and pouring in the Frankenjura....but there has been some bouldering and a little AD action. I’ve been doing some classic old school bouldering in between showers.....a great little problem with mono’s and 3 finger pockets called “Ramtino”..I have developed a Haribo addiction! My skin has exploded a little again, but our land lady baked us cakes and gave us carrots so that should help! I’ve had a couple of red point burns at AD and I have climbed it in overlapping sections...more news when I dry out!
Sunday, October 18, 2009
After shovelling his way out of A LOT of snow (almost 2 inches)...Ben sent us an update.....
HOW'S THE FRANKENJURA?
The Frankenjura is a little chilly but sooooo awesome, like a cross between Nowra and the Blue Mountains but more steep, proper powerful stuff with HEAPS of pockets!!!
WHAT HAVE YOU BEEN CLIMBING?
I've been climbing heaps...Hmmm... Climbed Plan B (X, 31) and Halloween (X, 31) a MEGA MEGA classic PHARRRHHHHH!!) I tried Stone Love (X+, 32) but a vacuuuummmmyyy black hole got punctured into my index finger so I have had 1 1/2 weeks of trying to grow some skin! In the mean time I've been trying Action Direct and bouldering a bit....the bouldering is AWESOME!
AND MOST IMPORTANTLY THEN HOW I ACTION DIRECT?
It was initially a bit spicey but then I strated breaking it into do-able sections....I've climbed all the moves.... Worked out a great sequence at the start of the crux so instead of it feeling a brick hard move I can squeeze in a chalk up and a Euro blow....
The first section....the jump and the first 6 or so moves I can happily scurry through...the crux sequence is getting sorted and then its a few cool 2 finger stacks, monos and pounces to the top!
It turns out Pottenstein is a bit technologically backward and phones don't seem to want to call Australia and there is no internet!! So i'll post some more news as soon as I can!