....is a question to ones motivation, always there and scrutinising, drawing your mind away from whatever distractions seduce thee, in essence… if you only have a doorjam to train on you can climb 9a, if you have a block of wood alone in your hand there is, right there, limitlessness in your hand, there is no reason but motivation, imagination for your goals to be left unrealised, for your daydreams to be unfulfilled it is all down to motivation, imagination, inspiration, 9a doorjam pulls you back to the fact of the matter and what it will take for you to do any given task.
The age old example:
The forearms are blind, so are the fingers and all that is housed within and that comprises thereof, and so as these, the rest of the body is just the same, indifferent to all but the action. So, in training weather you hang one arm in full crimp off a mouldy wooden edge in a garden shed or the latest, greatest polyurethane fingerboard the same action is being performed in the same way and your body is in the same way appreciative of your effort.
Its not that I’m saying fingerboards are a shit waste of time, of course not! More that its easy to concentrate on the finger and miss all that heavenly glory then to see it for its inherent use…to make thy fingers ming’in.
It is important to note that the “9a” grade is used for its exemplary use as opposed to just its mythic importance to the aforementioned pursuit of climbing where it may be seen as an end in itself for number value alone and that the “doorjam” is representative of the means by which a given task can be pursued when only the bare minimum of tools are yours to be utilised and thereby helping to bring to the fore perhaps hazily at first and with time more clearly the motives that hide behind the pretense for a persons desire to pursue any goal or end, or not even, a microbial “win” in any respect, be that in climbing, in conversation with strangers in the street and of course in your own relationship with yourself. So many selves, so little time to share your madness between them all!
The desire to possess something in the hope that it will make you something other then what you are i.e. “I will be X when I have Z”. Needing and wanting, a distraction from the apparent and pontificated goal. To want a new trick fingerboard more so then what you want from it, or that the want of it is not just the usefulness that it was created for!!!
If this is not making sense to you, know that it IS you….
Obviously this is beyond climbing, which makes it beyond life’s menial matters and strikes at the core of all reason. So, it is with great pleasure that we unveil 9a doorjam to the world, right here! To YOU right here!
In the future we will have all sorts of great stuff scribbled here for your enjoyment.
Pseudo-mystic tangents, hollerings of Old Testament grandeur, articulation of the sounds of a serpents slithering and fun tricks about kletterning und shtuff.
Tuesday, September 22, 2009
the route of the frankenjura, nigh the world . if there be one to do it be this right here.
this is such an object of some beyond decade obsession...how the mind SWEATS and brings my eyes to tear (literally!) at thought of doing...we have been training alot
AND SO LOVING FRIENDS WE MAKE OUR WAY TO THE FRANKENJURA IN GERMANY IN 5 DAYS, HERE IS YOUR PORTHOLE TO THE WHOLESOME HAPPENINGS OF YOUR GOOD FRIENDS BEN COSSEY AND ANDY RICHARDSON. YOU CAN DROP BY WHENEVER YOU FEEL THE DESIRE AND SEE WHATS A SHAKIN IN THE FOREST. WE'LL BE SNEAKING ABOUT THE PLACE FOR NIGH ON 6 WEEKS AND TRAVELLING WITH SOME FRIENDS OF YORE TRYING OUR DARNDEST TO CLAMBER UP SOME OF THE ROUTES WE HAVE BOTH DREAMT ABOUT FOR MORE THEN AN ETERNITY. SWEET MOSES, WE FIND IT HARD TO BELIEVE AT THE BEST OF TIME THAT THIS IS A REALITY AND THAT WE ARE COUNTING DOWN THE DAYS ON ONE HAND ALONE! SO WE WILL FILL YOUR BRAIN AND EYES WITH JOYOUS TALES OF SUCCESS' AND FAILURE'S, POPPING PULLYS AND THE IN'S AND OUT'S OF THE MYRIAD EMOTIONS OF SOULS ORBITING A FORESTED, POCKETED SUPER GIANT. SHIT!
OUR TRAINING HAS I THINK BEEN AS GOOD AS CAN BE, WE BOTH HAVE BEEN TRAINING A TONNE AND A HALF GETTING OUR PINKYS PERFECT AS CAN BE, THOUGH ANDY THE FUDDY DUDDY WENT AND ALMOST BUSTED HIS ANKLE AND THEN HURT A FINGER BUT IS CONFIDENT THE BUGGER WILL BE IN FINE ENOUGH FORM FOR THE OPENNESS OF THE POCKETS, THE IJURY BEING A PULLEY ME THINKS SO THEY TEND TO REACT BEST TO COMPLETE OPENNESS IN A RELATIONSHIP THAT HAS CAUSED IT TO BE HURT IN THE PAST. PLEASE REFRAIN ALSO FROM JUDGMENTS APON MY INTELLECT BASED MEARLY ON THE SPELLING AND GRAMMAR AND ATTEMPTS AT GERMAN YOU SEE HERE, AS LONG AS YOUR GETTING THE OVERALL JIST IM HAPPY.
YOO HOO SO NICE TO THINK! CRANKEN IN DER FRANKENJURA NOT SO FAR AWAY.