Sunday, September 29, 2013

Jack To The Hobos

It's been a busy couple of days down the Ukulore Valley these past few with outrageously good conditions due to the strong prevailing southerly cutting right up the cloaca of the Ukulore.

Tom on the classic v10 meat-fest that
we did a few weeks ago. Up To The Onions
Boulder, The Jungfrau - Ukulore Valley.
The main business over the past few days has been taking place beneath the shady canopy of The Jungfrau. The cool breeze shooting up The Jungfrau Gorge made for conditions better than any experienced up there before and meant that we could sink our teeth into some proper boney stuff. Previously, the time spent up there has been on smeg filled days when the air was stagnant and chokeingly thick and meant that a lot of the slopey slopes up there were barely holdable. 

Me getting frisky on the foist ascent of 
Jack To The Hobos v11, The Jungfrau - 
Ukulore Valley.
Tom O'H and I headed down there with the main intension of trying the left line on the wall to the right of Up To The Onions. We'd tried it previously on other days when we thought the temps were semi-decent but this time it was a different story. The slopey fridge hug moves felt like jugs with the cool breeze and the problem I'd initially thought would be v12 went with minimal fuss and is a middle of the road v11 as it turns out. It pounces out a roof to an amazing edge where you are then greeted with two super slopey edges that you throw off to a big fat sidepull. Then you have a bit of a desperate huggy rock-over to a chisely pocket, a slap to a slope then the finishing hoofter.

Tom O'H bustin' skulls on
Jack To The Hobos v11.
What a problem. Amazing rock and amazing technical and powerful moves that you have to get just right if you're to haul your way to the top. So yeah, Jack To The Hobos (v11) now exists at The Jungfrau!

Another problem that has been getting the special treatment is a stonking line to the right of Jack To The Hobos, an absolutely radicle dihedral that we've given the woiking title of 'And The Arse saw The Angel Project'. It tends left all the way up a wall that must be about 6 metres long. Luckily the ground tends up and left too! It is 25 moves long and overhangs about 35-40 degrees with bowel emptyingly burly moves on pinches and underclings all the way on amazing rock. The foist day on it it seemed outrageous and the idea of climbing it one go even more so. By the second day all the moves were done and it is now on like Donkey Kong...hopefully summer keeps a fair distance for now so'z to have a few more cracking days on it before it gets to be a sweat box down there and maybe, just maybe, the Ukulore can have another outstandingly awesome problem. Hopefully we'll get some pics next time we're there!

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